READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU START
IMPROPER INSTALLATION WILL VOID WARRANTY
Dear Customer, you have just purchased an EVP flooring product, produced with the latest technologies. Its exclusive hybrid composition guarantees you optimal performance in humid and temperate situations where other types of PVC flooring are unadvisable.
Tools and supplies required
All Subfloors must be:
- Structurally sound
- Clean: Thoroughly swept and free of all debris
- Level: Flat to 4.7mm per 3.3 meters radius
Wood sub-floors must be dry and well secured. Nail or screw every 15cm along joists to avoid squeaking. If not level,
sand down high spots and fill low spots with a leveling patch. Make sure all crawl space are open & has proper
Concrete subfloors must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, and should have minimum 6-mil polyfilm/or 200 micron
polyethylene sheeting between concrete and ground. Subfloor should be flat and level within 4.7mm per 3.3 meters.
If necessary grind high spots down and level low spots with a leveling compound.
Installation Tip 1
Ceramic Tile, resilient tile and sheet vinyl must be well bonded to subfloor, in good condition, clean and level. Do not
sand existing vinyl floors, as they may contain asbestos.INSTALLATION TOOLS
- Tape measure
- Tapping block (trimmed piece of flooring)
- Pry bar or pull bar
- Chalk line
- Crosscut power saw / Guillotine
- 3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 Tape
- Rubber mallet
Installation Tip 3
STARTING YOUR INSTALLATIONWork from several open boxes of flooring and “dry lay” the floor before permanently laying the floor. This will allow you to select the varying grains & colors and to arrange them in a harmonious pattern. Remember, it is the installers’ responsibility to determine the expectations of what the finished floor will look like with the end user first and then to cull out pieces that do not meet those expectations.
Begin installation next to an outside wall. This is usually the straightest and best reference for establishing a straight working line. Establish this line by measuring an equal distance from the wall at both ends and snapping a chalk line. The distance you measure from the wall should be the width of a plank. You may need to scribe cut the first row of planks to match the wall in order to make a straight working line if the wall is out of straight.
You may want to position a few rows before starting installation to confirm your layout decision and working line. When laying flooring, stagger end joints from row to row by at least 30cm/300mm. When cutting the last plank in a row to fit, you can use the cut-off end to begin the next row. If cut-off end is 30cm/300mm in length or less, discard it and instead cut a new plank at a random length and use it to start the next row. Always begin each row from the same side of the room. When near a wall, you can use a pry bar to pry close the side and end joints.
Inspection: Prior to installation, inspect planks in daylight for visible faults/damage. Check if subfloor/site conditions comply with the specifications described in these instructions. If you are not satisfied do not install, and contact your supplier.
Before laying: Measure the room at right angle to the direction of the planks. For best visual effect, planks in the final row should be at least 50mm wide (minimum), or half width of plank. For this purpose, planks in the first row can be cut to smaller size. Shuffle planks in order to obtain a pleasant blend of shades. Lay planks preferably following the direction of the main source of light. We recommend laying on wooden floors crossways to the existing floorboard.
Planks must not be nailed or screwed to the subfloor. Baseboards and molding must not be fixed in a way which restricts the movement of the floor.
Installation Tip 5
Practise scoring on a plank prior to beginning of installation
- Begin the next row with the off cut piece from the previous row to stagger the pattern. This piece should be a minimum of long (header to header) and the joint off set from the previous row should be at least apart. To attach, tilt the plank you are installing slightly upwards (about 15 – 25◦) and rotate downwards into place. The plank will click into place with light pressure.
- Install the second plank in the second row by inserting the short end tongue into the previously installed plank groove. Align the plank so that the long side tongue tip is positioned just over the groove lip of the first row. Working from the end seam, at a low angle, insert the long tongue into the groove of the adjoining plank. You should be able to “feel” the tongue lock into the groove. Continue locking each piece into the short side first and then the long side.
- To fit the last row, lay a panel on top of the previous row. With the plank against the wall, mark a line down each of the planks. Be sure to keep the loose plank against the wall. Disengage the row and cut the pieces along the marked line. This will become the last row. Continue the installation. Remember to use a different length on the first and the last piece. After the row is installed, the cut row will fit into place with the appropriate space being left for expansion.
- Door frames, heating vents and all vertical objects also require expansion gaps. Cut the panel to the correct length. Place the cut panel next to its actual position and use a ruler to measure the areas to be cut out and mark them. Cut out the marked points allowing the necessary expansion distance on each side.
- You can trim wooden and steel door frames by turning a panel upside down, mark the necessary height required and using a handsaw or angle grinder cut away the necessary height so that panels slide easily under the frames.
- To finish the perimeter of the room, install quarter rounds/ scotia / skirting’s using finishing nails. Nail quarter rounds directly into the skirting and not the flooring.